Falafel

Ingredients

• 300 g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
• 1 onion, quartered
• 4 garlic cloves
• a big bunch of parsley
• a big bunch of coriander
• 1 tbsp ground cumin
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
• 1 tbsp sesame seeds
• vegetable oil, for frying
• 80 g tahini, to serve

Method

1. Soak, never boil

   Soak the dried chickpeas in plenty of cold water for at least 12 hours. They go into the processor raw. Tinned or cooked chickpeas contain far too much water and will disintegrate in the oil — this is the one non-negotiable rule of falafel.

   12 h

2. Blitz to couscous

   Drain thoroughly and process with the onion, garlic, herbs and spices until it looks like damp couscous. Stop before it becomes a smooth paste; you want it to just hold when squeezed.

3. Rest, then aerate

   Chill the mixture for 30 minutes, then stir in the bicarbonate of soda and sesame seeds just before frying. The bicarb makes them light inside, but it starts working immediately, so it goes in last.

   30 min

4. Shape and test one

   Squeeze into small balls or patties, packing them firmly. Fry one first at 170°C — if it falls apart, pulse the mix a little finer or add a spoonful of flour.

5. Fry in batches

   Fry at 170°C until deep brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. Hotter than that and the outside is dark while the raw chickpea inside is still chalky.

   4 min

6. Serve

   Drain on a rack, salt immediately, and serve hot with tahini loosened with lemon and cold water. They are only truly good in the first ten minutes.